* Before attempting to modify a stock truck, you need to make sure that it is in top running condition.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE Portions of the following information were excerpted from the Factory Service Manual.
1. ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER CHANGE - Use Mobile 1 synthetic oil or an equivalent synthetic. The proper viscosity for your vehicle is SAE# 10W-30. - Engine capacity is 4.5 quarts with a filter change. - Use AC PF-51. or higher quality equivalent. - Make sure that when reinstalling the new oil filter that you coat the rubber “O-Ring” on the filter with oil to ensure that it will tighten properly on the filter housing. Do not over tighten.
2. CHASSIS LUBRICATION - Lubricate the front suspension, steering linkage (transmission shift linkage), parking brake cable guides, rear prop-shaft, front prop-shaft, rear joint centering ball, universal joints, and brake pedal springs at the intervals specified in section A or at every engine oil change, whichever comes first.
3. ENGINE COOLING AND CHARGE AIR COOLER SYSTEM SERVICE - Drain, flush and refill system with coolant every 24 months. Tighten all clamps and inspect all coolant hoses. - Clean exterior of radiator, charge air cooler radiator and air conditioning condenser. Only use distilled water in the intercooler!
4. AIR CLEANER ELEMENT - Replace at every 30,000 miles (dusty conditions require more frequent changing.) - Stock air filter is AC A1163C (Clean K&N filters at manufacturers intervals)
5. TRANSMISSION SERVICE - Change the transmission fluid and filter every 15,000 miles
6. PCV SYSTEM INSPECTION - Check that PCV system works properly. The valve should rattle freely when shaken. - Replace the valves and any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses as necessary. - Use only GM 8995910. aka AC Delco 799C (the correct PCV valve has an "E" stamped in the bottom).
7. FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT - Replace the fuel filter every 7,500 miles. Use GF481. - The fuel filter is located under the drivers side tucked inside of the frame rail.
8. SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT - Replace spark plugs with AC CR42TS, gapped at .032-.035, every 30,000 miles.; (The CR designated plugs have a heavier electrode than a R42TS.) NGK UR5's are also a highly recommended replacement plug.
9. SPARK PLUG WIRE INSPECTION - Clean wires and inspect for burns, cracks or other damage every 30,000 miles. - Inspect the wires near the downpipe on the passenger more frequently as they have more tendency to be damaged. - Check the wire boot fit at the distributor and at the spark plugs. Replace wires as needed. When changing plug wires, do not pull on the wires. Remove by gripping the boots, preferably using a boot puller tool! This is critical. Failure to do this will more than likely result in a separation of the plug connector inside the boot.
10. EGR ELECTRONIC VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION - Inspect filter for excessive contamination or plugging. - If required, clean element with a solution of biodegradable soap and water, let dry and reinstall element.
11. ENGINE TIMING CHECK AND DISTRIBUTOR CHECK - Adjust timing to under hood label specifications every 60,000 miles. - Disconnect the Tan wire under the pass side dash when checking timing - Set to 0* - reconnect the tan wire and pull the ECMB fuse to clear any codes that were set.
- Inspect the inside and outside of the distributor cap and rotor for cracks, carbon tracking and corrosion. Clean or replace as needed. (A rotor removal tip from Richard Le is to use the wheel lock wrench. Place the curved end of the wrench under the rotor and pry it up. This tip will save a lot of bruised knuckles!)
12. FUEL TANK, CAP AND LINES INSPECTION - Inspect the fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks. Remove fuel cap, inspect gasket for an even filler neck imprint, and any damage every 30,000 miles.
13. ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT INSPECTION - Inspect belt. Look for cracks, fraying, wear, and proper tension. - The Goodyear Gatorback serp belt is a common upgrade
14. TIRE AND WHEEL ROTATION AND INSPECTION – For proper wear and maximum tire life, rotate tires at every 15,000 miles. Tires will have to be removed from Stock wheels to complete rotation as front and rear wheels have different offsets. Tighten lug nuts to 90 ft.lbs. Inspect wheels for damage. Inspect brake pads calipers and lines for wear leaks and damage while wheels are off.
15. DRIVE AXLE SERVICE – Check rear/front axle fluid level and add as needed. Check constant velocity joints and axle seals for leaking.
a. Rear Locking Differential – Drain fluid at first oil change and refill. Check fluid level and add as needed at each oil change. In dusty areas, drain and change fluid every 15,000 miles. Use GM positraction additive.
b. Front Standard Differential – Check fluid level and add as needed at every oil change. In dusty areas, drain and refill every 15,000 miles.
16. TRANSFER CASE – Every 12 months or at oil change intervals, check transfer case and add DEXRON IIE Automatic Transmission Fluid as needed. Check vent hose for kinks and proper installation
17. BODY LUBRICATION – Lubricate all body door hinges including the tailgate. Lubricate the body hood, fuel door, and rear compartment hinges, latches and locks including the interior glove box and console doors, and any folding seat hardware.
18. SPARE TIRE – Check tire pressure and fill to recommended amount. Verify that the jack and handle are stowed properly. Oil jack after each use.
19. REAR DRIVESHAFT / FRONT PROPSHAFT – Lubricate all prop shaft slip joints, universal joints and Front Prop Rear Joint Centering Ball every oil change.
20. LIGHT OPERATION CHECK – Check operation of license plate light, side marker light, headlights including high beams, fog lights, parking lights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals, backup lights, instrument panel illumination and hazard warning flashers.
21. THERMOSTATICALLY CONTROLLED ENGINE COOLING FAN – With engine off and below normal operating temperature, check to see that the fan can be rotated by hand on fluid coupling drive. Replace as necessary.
22. FUEL INJECTORS – Clean every 10,000 miles and/or after sitting for greater than 60 days. Factory injectors are very sensitive.
SUGGESTED MODIFICATIONS This was constructed in an effort to create a sequential "stop when you're going fast enough" type of mod list. This list is welcome to any comments that you feel should be altered (order) or changed.
ADDITIONAL BOOST GAUGE - The stock boost gauge on the dash is unfortunately more decoration than use because it’s woeful vague. Even if you're not considering running high boost (I.e. over 15psi) the gauge gives total peace of mind that the boost is accurately shown. On Saudi Syclones, which have no boost gauge at all, this is essential. A suitable gauge is 30-0-30 from Autometer or VDO and which mounts well into Lyle Simons' A-Pillar mounting.
If a single pod isn't enough and more than one gauge is required Lo-Tek Engineering produces A-pillar replacements that allow the mounting of two or three gauges. They offer the mounts for either 2 1/16" or 2 5/8" Gauges
The pillar mounting facilitates the monitoring of other engine parameters such as Fuel Pressure, oil temperature, transmission temperature, exhaust gas temperature, etc. with the gauges in an easy to view position.
MANUAL OVERIDE FOR INTERCOOLER PUMP - With a stock chip the intercooler pump does not switch on until the coolant has reached 215F by which time major heat soak has affected the intercooler. This basically means that under normal driving conditions with only occasional use of boost the truck drives like a non-intercooled vehicle. To manually switch on the pump, a simple circuit is required. On the fire wall above the distributor are two relays. The one on the right controls the intercooler pump and the yellow wire triggers the pump. Join a length of wire to the yellow and feed it across the top and down to the right where the grommet feeds cables through the firewall. It's a tight fit so it'll be difficult.
Link the wire to one pole of an on/off switch and link the other pole of the switch to ground. The pump should now run when the switch and ignition are both on.
Hoses for Stock IC This is one of the mods that isn't really "necessary" but is recommended if you happen to have the upper IC or Intake off. You see, the stock metal IC lines hug the engine and absorb a lot of heat. As well they are bent in severe 90° bends, restricting flow. To solve this problem, you can purchase 12 ft of 3/4 black heater hose from a local parts store and replace these lines. You'll want to reroute them to run behind the intake and by the steering column. This will keep a good bit of heat away from them. * You may want to purchase a metal 90° elbow to make the bend down by the sway bar, or else the rubber hose will get kinked and restrict flow.
180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT – The 180 is recommended. The 195 degree standard thermostat is just about adequate for stock boost levels but some chips (Like the JET for instance) have aggressive timing that require a cooler running engine to help prevent detonation. The use of a 160 degree thermostat is not generally recommend for street use because of possible emissions problems. However, some owners have had no problems with this.
LOW RESTRICTION AIR FILTER The stock air element is the usual paper type and to increase airflow the addition of a K&N filter element (Part No. 599-33-2042) or equivalent low restriction filter will help. If guaranteed flow is required, removing the stock air box is better and a K&N 8" barrel filter (Part No. 599-RU-3130) can be attached to the duct pipe. Note: Any change of filter to a less restrictive type will make the"close throttle" turbo boost noise louder (See the Engine Tour page for details)
COLD AIR KIT - For the most efficient cold airflow, the intake duct which runs across the radiator and air box attached to it, should be removed and replaced by a cold air kit. This basically allows the fitting of a barrel filter virtually direct to the turbo for the lowest level of intake restriction possible. A cold air kit usually protects the filter from the surrounding hot air and allows the filter to draw cool air from the wheel well.
Some kits, such as the ATR Kit, mount in the location that is normally occupied by the battery which means it needs to be mounted elsewhere. Battery relocation kits vary from mounting the battery in the rear bed or, alternatively, on the underside of the body within the protection of the body cladding.
EXHAUST SYSTEM – There are several catback exhaust systems for our trucks. ATR, Borla, and Kenne Bell have complete systems. These are available through several members who regularly participate in group purchases, in order to get a slightly reduced price from the specific manufacturer. Mufflers from other manufactures can be welded in, but sometimes the complete elimination of the muffler (but retaining the catalytic converter) provides a really nice sound. It might be a little loud at W.O.T. for some.)
LARGER INTERCOOLERS ATR and Conley’s have a larger, stock style intercooler that bolts in the same position as the factory Intercooler. These units offer greater interior volume and greater cooling capacity.
AUXILIARY HEAT EXCHANGER - The stock Charge Air Cooler (CAC) system is barely adequate for the stock boost levels and the radiator for the CAC coolant is poorly located and not of a large enough size. ATR produce an auxiliary radiator, which mounts in front of the engine coolant radiator. This increase in size provides additional cooling to significantly reduce intake temperatures. The stock CAC pump has a poor flow rate and low pressure making it unsuitable for use with a larger CAC radiator so the ATR kit comes with a new CAC pump which flows 10 times more than the stock one.
An alternative to purchasing the ATR kit is to make a similar one for a lot less: Order a Hayden Transmission Cooler, Model 1241 from Pep Boys or a similar outlet for around $110. Hayden can be contacted on 909-736-2665 for details of a local distributor. To install the cooler have a look at the auxiliary intercooler installation instructions. The pump used by ATR is the Shurflo 2088-403-444 which is available for about $70. Call Campers Choice, at 1-800-833-6713 for part# A191 for a cheap deal, or Shurflo at 1-800-854-3218 for the name of a local distributor. Fitting of the Shurflo 2088 requires additional mountings and electrical connections, as it doesn't fit in the stock location. Another alternative is Ron Gregory's IC pump, which mounts in the stock pump location. This pump runs about $90.
AIR to AIR INTERCOOLERS
Several high horsepower trucks use an AIR to AIR IC. These require considerable modifications to the engine compartment and relocation of the battery.
Kenne Bell has an air-to-air system
Tony DeQuick at ChargedAir Systems has a twin intercooler package for the Syclone and Typhoon is the most effective intercooler package available for these trucks (aside from supercooling). Using twin intercooler assemblies, one mounted in place of the OE heat exchanger for the OE liquid-to-air intercooler, and the other mounted behind the grill, this system offers unparalleled air-to-air intercooler performance for these trucks. The entire system features:
Twin air-to-air intercooler assemblies All tubing for all connections from the turbo charger to the throttle body Nomex hoses, nomex reducers, constant torque stainless hose clamps, and a Sy/Ty specific hose reducer for the throttle body Mounting hardware and installation instructions
With the tubing configuration used with this system, it is necessary to either have external wastegate or a TE/T series (T-63/TE-60/TE-45 etc.) turbo on the truck that allows the compressor housing to be reclocked with the compressor discharge aimed directly down. Installation also does require cutting a 3.0" hole in the fender for installation.
Production pictures will follow 11/99. We are building these units now (10/21/99) and will begin shipping in early November. Pricing for the twin air-to-air kit will be $1449.
INTRACOOLER Cool Flow, Houston TX, sells a device which plumbs the A/C refrigerant into a dedicated intracooler filled with their patented heat transfer fluid, Dynalene. Cool Flow Intracoolers use near-freezing air produced by the vehicle's air conditioning system to cool down the liquid section, a cold-storage reservoir. So, as turbocharged air passes through, it is cooled down dramatically, thus replenishing lost density back to the air. This high density air improves fuel efficiency, increases power & engine performance, reduces NOx emissions, and will not damage engine valves. The "Refrigerant-to-Liquid-to Air" model. This bad boy fits the turbocharged Buick, Pontiac Trans Am, and GMC Syclone & Typhoon. It bolts right on in place of the stock system. Did you notice how the manufacturer installed the stock intercooler, designed to be cooled by ambient air, right in front of your blazing hot engine? Are they nuts? Don't touch your stock unit after a run, you'll leave skin on it. Now listen to this. Satisfied customers report that after a wide-open throttle run, their Intracooler is COLD TO THE TOUCH! If you want cold weather performance in any weather, and increased performance all the time, this is for you. The liquid section is shipped with Dynalene, a special heat transfer fluid to absorb large amounts of heat from the hot air during acceleration, and quick replenishing of its cold storage capacity after reactivating the a/c compressor.
Having a low amount of "Pressure Drop" (between the inlet and outlet side of the core) is very important to performance. A general guideline would be that LESS than 1 psi is best, and OVER 2 psi is unacceptable. Our Intracoolers cores have pressure drops which range between .18 @ 700 CFM to .7 @ 1500 CFM. Performance rates are calculated with 30 PSI boost, 400-degree inlet temperature, and 110 or 45-degree cooling liquid.The goal is to achieve 75% efficiency or better. We believe that the combination of colder air, and low pressure drop will meet that goal. Remember, Cool Flow Intracoolers drop temperatures far below what ambient air can do with the standard "air to air" or "air to water" versions. Yes, the ice-to-water-to-air can achieve similar results to our CoolFire, but the ice-water version has to be "re-iced" after a race, while the CoolFire just re-cools itself, and is soon ready for another run.
They’re device mounts either in conjunction with the factory IC or completely replaces it. They’re home page is Coolflow.com
HIGH VOLUME FUEL PUMP Once you're running high (Above 18psi) boost levels the stock pump is starting to struggle to deliver enough fuel. Ron Gregory has the 190 and 255lph fuel pumps, which installs into the stock location. On some applications, owners have reported that they needed to go to a 15 amp fuse, from the stock 10 amp fuse. For serious race applications, ATR's double fuel pump ensures that the fuel pressure is always there and the delivery is consistent. Some owners also have "hot-wired" their fuel pumps with a separate harness from the back of the alternator. This harness runs through relays so the pump still functions as the factory designed it. There are also external pumps that can be mounted in-line with the factory pump, but, bite the bullet and install a high-pressure in-tank unit. It’s much cleaner and quieter.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR Depending upon the chip and boost levels in use, a regulator can help to ensure that the engine doesn't run lean when on full boost at WOT. Some chips, like the ATR Pitbull, have enrichment enabled giving plenty of fuel but others, like Lee Howie's JET, run very aggressive timing without any form of enrichment. In the case of the JET, an adjustable regulator can help increase fueling at W.O.T.
The pressure regulator increases fuel pressure as boost increases. Adjust the pressure regulator to match the modifications to your truck. Normally, FP would be adjusted higher to keep the O2 sensor reading about 880-900mv.
When using Todd's adjustable chip with a 3-Bar MAP Sensor, base fuel pressure needs to be set at 50lbs with the vacuum line disconnected.
FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE – Autometer has just released a new electric, full sweep 2 1/8” fuel pressure gauge that mounts inside the truck. There are many options for this gauge. Choose the gauge that best fits your application. Don’t use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that runs a gas line inside the truck. Always use an isolator on a mechanical gauge.
Stock pressure is 42 lbs with the vacuum line detached. PERFORMANCE CHIP – Use of a performance chip is contingent on several other things. Fuel pressure, Octane, and inter-cooling. Generally, it is not recommended to use a Kenne Bell chip unless a very good knock detection and retard system is also installed. KB recommends that a J&S system be used with their chips.
What’s a 3 bar chip and why is it better than a 2 bar chip?
To answer this question you must understand the ECM (your engine’s computer). Late model GM vehicles use one of 2 methods to determine the engine’s fueling needs: mass air flow or speed density. Mass air flow uses a sensor that actually measures the amount of air going into the engine, and from other data (engine speed, throttle position etc) can calculate the exact fueling needs. Speed density measures the manifold pressure, and its changes (along with engine speed and other related data) to meter fueling needs. On a naturally aspirated car (non supercharger/turbocharger) a 1 bar map sensor is needed, as the engine only operates in vacuum. The 1 bar map sensor can read from about 14.7psi vacuum (or negative pressure) to atmospheric pressure (0 psi). A 2 bar map sensor can read from 14.7psi vacuum to 14.7psi positive pressure (one bar vacuum, one bar pressure greater than atmospheric). In the same respect, a 3 bar map sensor reads from 14.7psi vacuum to 29.4psi positive pressure (one bar vacuum, two bar of boost pressure).
What are the disadvantages and advantages of each?
A mass air flow system can take into account different modifications (cam/heads etc) that are done to increase power, as the sensor can ‘see’ the additional air going into the engine and will add fuel as necessary. This is as long as the sensor is not maxed out, as mass air flow sensors have a limit to their readings. The speed density system is not as forgiving in its calibrations, as the calibration is usually set for a stock system. When major changes are performed on the engine, the computer reads the same manifold pressure levels as a stock engine, and the same amount of fuel is delivered, when more or less is really needed. So in this respect, a mass air flow system is better. It also does not use a restrictive sensor to meter air, as the mass air flow systems do. As I mentioned before, however, the mass air flow systems can be maxed out, so in a higher performance system, the speed density is the winner (and this is the main reason speed density is used on aftermarket ECM systems). In the syty application, however, this benefit did not exist.....
What does all this have to do with Syclones/Typhoons?
The SyTy’s use a speed density system, BUT the stock setup uses a 2 bar map sensor. So the ECM can only read up to 14.7psi of boost. So if the boost is raised above this amount, the ECM will not know the actual pressure, as the sensor is maxed out. Anything over 14.7psi would be read as 14.7psi by the computer. So fueling cannot be changed at higher boost, timing cannot be altered at higher boost levels, and boost control will not function efficiently (as the SyTy’s ECM controls boost also). So basically, for a person on a budget who wants a bit more performance out of their truck, it was a risky venture, as fueling wasn’t being compensated as the boost was turned up, timing would not be changed at higher boost levels, and the factory boost control was not operating as well as it could, all very dangerous situations, especially on vehicles so prone to detonate.
What’s the solution?
A chip calibrated for a 3 bar map sensor, to take advantage of the extended range of that sensor.
FUELING: - A 3 bar chip now has the potential to add fueling at boost levels greater than 14.7psi. However, the stock setup is limited as the stock injectors are nearly maxed out (100% duty cycle). On the STG 3 bar chip,. the fueling is slightly leaner than stock, so a higher base fuel pressure can be run to deliver a bit more fuel at higher boost levels.
TIMING: The timing can be modified on a 3 bar chip at higher boost levels, for either safety or performance. On the STG Display chip, there are 3 levels of timing, for different performance levels (to be used with higher octane gas also). The levels are designated T1,T2,T3 (T3 most aggressive timing, T1 mild timing, stock like). Also, on each program, the timing is MUCH lower above the set boost level, in case of a boost spike or creep, the timing will drop significantly, hopefully enough that no damage would have been done.
BOOST CONTROL: - The boost control on the 3 bar chips has the potential to control boost up to 30psi, BUT the stock wastegate is very undersized. If the stock wastegate is ported or if an upgraded integral is used on a larger turbo, boost control will be solid, with fine adjustments possible on the multi chip. So with this chip, there is no need for an aftermarket boost controller. No boost controller will work well with an improperly sized wastegate.
Special Features in the STG 3 bar chips:
Limit boost during first acceleration disabled, Turns on intercooler pump when engine coolant reaches 60ºF thus eliminating the need and disadvantages of hard wiring the intercooler pump to run continuously.
RPM limit raised to 5400RPM, Overboost fuel cut retained for safety reasons (2-3psi above boost level for that program), EGR disabled in T3 (aggressive timing) programs, so as to not heat up intake (cruising to/from staging lanes), Max knock retard raised (the stock amount of retard is limited to 12.66º, we raise this max to 18º).
3 different timing curves, from mild to aggressive, Several boost levels, from stock to 24psi.
Additional Ultimate Chip Features:
Key lockable switching feature which is nearly impossible to defeat. With the key removed, programs cannot be changed, including a"no start" setting which is an excellent security feature. Valet setting with significant full throttle power reduction and a 4000RPM limit. Dimensions on display/switching unit: 6"x4"x2" Cable length of approximately 5 feet.
The program selection will be displayed on the Ultimate Display chip, showing what timing level (T1,T2,T3), and what boost level (in PSI).As was mentioned above, speed density ECM’s usually need chip updates/reprogramming for every little modification. Our programs seem to work well on trucks with mild modifications (intercooler modifications, turbo upgrades). Trucks with wild modifications (high lift cams/ported heads/significantly larger turbos) will not run as well as a lightly modded truck using these programs. In the future, I hope we can offer programs for trucks with serious upgrades, and perhaps design some buildup plans that can utilize our programs, as the alternative (aftermarket ECM) is the only real solution right now, and is an expensive one.
From: Todd.A.Austinson (Ty1548@aol.com)
Brian Green and I are finally ready to make the STG 3 bar multichips available. The chip will be available in two forms, unless you have purchased a 2 bar chip previously, then you have a third option which will be described below.
The first option is simply called the STG 3 Bar Multichip. It has 4 programs that can be selected with a small pushwheel microswitch, similar to the Todd A. 4-1 2 bar chip. This unit's first program is a reduced power program, with all stock limits in tact, reduced timing, and no intercooler pump operation. This could be thought of as a "valet" setting.
The second is a "street" program designed for 93 octane fuel, and will run 16 psi of boost if ecm boost control is used. The third is a "street/strip" program, running 18 psi of ecm controlled boost, and requiring greater than 93 octane. The fourth is a "strip" program runs 20 psi of ecm controlled boost, disables EGR function, and also requiring greater than 93 octane. The actual octane requirements will vary from truck to truck, and it is best to use a scan tool to determine safe levels.
As a rough rule of thumb, the "street/strip" should have at least 95 octane, and the "strip" 104 octane. All three performance programs will turn the intercooler pump on at a 60 degree engine coolant temperature, 5400 rpm limit, and no mph limit. Only the "valet" and "street" settings have programmed boost limits, both occurring at 18 psi. This allows the user to use an external boost controller without hitting any pre-programmed limits while operating the #3-4 settings. Price for this chip will be $200.
The second option is the most interesting. It is unofficially called the STG Ultimate Chip for now and is actually a timing/boost controller in one chip. It has a digital display/control unit that will indicate the selected timing and boost level, as well as a key operated lock-out to prevent setting changes when the key is removed. A pushbutton is used to select the programs when the unit is enabled by the key switch. There are 3 levels of timing and 6 levels of boost, from 16 -24 psi, that can be selected. In addition there is a valet and security setting which is nearly impossible to defeat due to the lock-out function of the display/control unit. There is really no way to defeat the lock out by any means other than breaking open the display/controller and re-wiring the internal circuits, requiring a good working knowledge of the system. Simply cutting the cable and getting "lucky" by shorting the correct wires together will only result in blowing the ECM B fuse, disabling the truck even further. In other words, it's a pretty good security system, minus a blaring alarm. Similar precautions will be needed as expressed above in determining safe octane levels for use with this chip. The high timing level can be run with 24 psi of boost, necessitating 107+ octane. I want to add that the higher boost settings (20+) might not be very usable with stock turbos due to their limited capacities. The 12.17 @ 112.1 that I ran last fall with my Typhoon was accomplished using the high timing program level with 22 psi of boost. I have been running a prototype version of this chip since last October. The high level timing selections also have the EGR disabled. Price for this chip will be $350.
The last option applies to those who already have one of the 2 bar multichips. These can be upgraded to a 3 bar chip by several methods. The first is to simply send the original back to me for reprogramming. You will get your chip returned with 4, 8, or 10 3 bar programs loaded, depending on what type of chip you have. The cost for this will be $50 for the new programs. The 4-1's will have the same programs as described for the STG Multichip. The 8-1's will get security, valet, 16 psi and 17 psi street, 18 and 20 psi street/strip, and 18 and 20 psi strip settings. The 10-1's will get an 18 psi street and 22 psi strip in addition to the 8-1 programs listed. The other option is to upgrade to the "Ultimate Chip" by returning your original to me plus $150.
All these new 3 bar chips will be easily upgradable due to hardware changes if and when software improvements are made. We will keep this cost at minimum to the 3 bar users. We are shooting for something in the ballpark of $25 for these upgrades.
The STG Multichip is available now and can be ordered through Brian Green. The "Ultimate" is also available, but if you want one of these I'd like you to contact Brian (or me if this will be an upgrade) now so that he can relay to me how many I need to make. I'm sure Brian will have something to add to this so stay tuned.
Todd Austinson '92 Ty #1548 12.17 @ 112.1 STG
From: Brian Green (email@example.com)
To upgrade to a 3 bar chip, we will need a 3 bar map sensor right?
Yes. GM/ AC Delco part number 1604-0749 - sensor assembly.
All these new 3 bar chips will be easily upgradable due to hardware changes if and when software improvements are made. We will keep this cost at minimum to the 3 bar users. We are shooting for something in the ballpark of $25 for these upgrades.
As far as upgrades go, I am working on having a program for 44lb injectors for stock engined trucks. This will be ideal for those running larger turbos and big boost, trying to squeeze all they can out of the stock engine. Hopefully this program will be available in the near future, with other programs to follow probably (44lb chips for cammed trucks, possibly 50lb and 55lb programs also). For those of you skeptical of a 44lb injector chip program, I'm more impressed with their performance than stock injectors. I got a smoother idle/off idle than with stockers, with great throttle response and pulse width control, just have to dial it in now at WOT/boost. So anyway..stay tuned for that.
If you have questions, concerns, or want to order one of the chips, email me with "STG 3 bar chips" in the subject.
For those of you interested in the display, I don't have much information on it yet, as Todd is still working on it and changing it. When we have it ready, we'll probably have a webpage with pics and description of it.
Thanks Brian Green
syclone 160 STG Racing
From: Todd.A.Austinson (Ty1548@aol.com)
Some things I inadvertently omitted while writing the initial message. That's what you get when you try to write a lengthy note while holding 2-3 instant message conversations.
First of all, it has been pointed out that I should have mentioned that a GM 3 bar MAP sensor is needed (replacing the stock 2 bar) to run these chips.
The display/control unit is on a web site. The display will indicate which particular program is being executed, e.g., security, valet, timing, and boost level. As you toggle through the selections the display will update. The best way I can describe the size and appearance of the display/controller is that it will look like a G-tech performance meter or small radar detector.
Look for updates on the soon to be web site, with more specifics on the 3 bar functions and advantages.
The standard 10-1 with push wheel switch is still $200, the 10-1 with LED display/switch/lock (same as the Ultimate) is $250, and the Ultimate 3 bar chip is $375.
For full purchasing instructions contact Todd Austinson at Ty1548 at aol.com and in the subject line and put "performance chip order".
OCTANE ALWAYS run premium (92+) Octane. If you're running race boost levels, then there's no substitute or better engine protector than race fuel such as a mixture of 100 Octane unleaded or some form of octane booster. Sunoco markets a 104 octane GT Plus Unleaded gas. Mix this with 50% 92 octane for a 96 octane blend. VP has a 100 Octane unleaded that also works well.
108 OCTANE BOOSTER OR BLEND - Warning: Some octane boosters that are added to premium gas can damage the Oxygen (O2) Sensor. Make sure that if you do use a booster it is Oxygen Sensor safe. Use either commercially purchased or home blended (using Toluene, Zylene and 104 Octane booster.).
IMPROVED IGNITION SYSTEM - High boost conditions increase the risk of spark blow out and usually a reduction in spark plug gap is needed. To combat this and maintain economy, and off boost drivability the use of an addition CDI spark unit is recommended.
The MSD6A has been used in conjunction with the stock coil by a number of truck owners.
The Accel 300+ ignition module, which seems to work well by itself without the additional coil, but causes significant RF interference with an audible buzzing noise in the cab if the control unit is mounted to the firewall. Also, the increased voltage and current from the additional coil causes significant and accelerated wear on the rotor arm and the central contact post in the distributor cap. A prime example of where 'too much spark' is not a good thing.
Accel Extreme 9000 plug wires, available from JEGS with part number 9034, fit well and are made for high heat applications. (which is good especially for plug number 6 and its close proximity to the downpipe.) Other custom fit wire suggestions are the Accel 8.8mm (8893) or the Taylor Spiro Pro (Summit catalogue No: TAY-74632). Any other high quality custom fit wires for the 1991 4.3L V6 will fit and work but care should be taken in ensuring the level of noise suppression is sufficient.
The electrodes on the 1991 and prior Delco distributor caps are an aluminum/zinc matrix. When they are subject to electricity and moisture there is a very reactive chemical reaction, which leads to rapid corrosion, and a reduction is spark transfer efficiency.
Replacing the cap and rotor for a good quality equivalent like the Accel 8133 can sometimes cure misfire and engine stumble problems whilst ensuring the best spark delivery at all times.
CAT BYPASS TUBE - It is not recommended to install a by-pass tube unless your truck is modified with a different waste gate and used for off-road use. On a stock truck, the elimination of the catalytic converter will cause severe boost spikes over 20lbs!
TURBO TO INTERCOOLER HOSE The stock turbo to intercooler hose has a tight bend and its ribbed construction causes turbulence in the airflow. Replacing the hose with a section of radiator hose with a suitably smooth bend will help airflow. The original prototype Sy's had been seen with this kind of hose setup.
Trac Auto has a radiator hose (Part #70689) that fits just fine with a little trimming or use the Goodyear part #60914.
A radiator hose from a GM truck, GM part number 15684449, has several 90 (or near 90) degree bends in it, and it's possible to make at least two (and maybe three) turbo to intercooler hoses out of it.
Several owners have offered a Stainless pipe to replace this hose.
CHASSIS: LOWERING - The front torsion suspension can be lowered by turning the bolt on the torsion bar key approximately 1 turns (per .2" of travel)
The rear suspension is lowered by either the use of a lowering block or by replacing the leaf springs, such as Flexiform.
REAR AIR SUSPENSION - The rear load leveler system on the Typhoon is sometimes removed and those air leveler shocks replaced with a high performance shock. It is necessary to remove the fuse for this system if the compressor is left intact.
SHOCKS – Use a high quality shock absorber such as Bilstein, KYB, Tokico, Rancho, etc.
Turbo Magazine ran an article on a White Typhoon that removed the factory leveler system, installed high performance shocks (in the rear) and then installed a separate air bag system to help manage ride height when the truck carried multiple occupants. This system ran using the factory compressor system.
TRANSMISSIONS - Heat kills transmissions. Install a high flow cooler, change the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles, don't torque brake for more than a couple of seconds during "brisk acceleration". Temperature can go from 200 to 280 very quickly!
There are many suppliers of aftermarket performance transmissions. Use only a 4L60 or 700R4 type transmission. It is generally acknowledged that Brian Hartman is the transmission expert for our trucks. His transmissions and/or kits are of the highest quality available.
DRIVESHAFT/PROPSHAFT SAFETY RETENTION LOOPS If the front propshaft doublecardin joint fails and the front propshaft breaks, it sometimes destroys the transmission, beats up the floor pan and destroys the shifter cable. Phil Chivers makes a front propshaft loop that bolts on, without drilling. It fits most trucks.
However, one brand of deep transmission oil pans cause fitment problems and the front loop can’t be installed. He also has a bolt in rear driveshaft loop. Sanctioned tracks will require safety loops if the truck runs quicker than a 13.0.
TRANSMISSION OIL PANS GM Deep Tranny Pan (5.5qt). This modification provides the transmission with extra fluid capacity, equaling better heat dissipation. This pan is about 1" deeper than the stocker and has a side wide enough to weld-in a tranny temp sending unit. This pan can be purchased over the parts counter at any GM dealership for about $24. You will need to buy the deeper tranny filter for this pan.
HIGH STALL TORQUE CONVERTER – The Syclone/Typhoon converter will stall at approximately 2100 RPM at 7 psi. and works fine on a stock truck. However, when torque is reduced from the installation of a larger turbo or cam, a higher stall speed converter becomes necessary if off the line and low end acceleration and throttle response is to be retained.
There are several high stall torque converters able. It is generally accepted that a 2800 stall speed with lock-up is the ideal one for our trucks. This converter has a slightly loose "feel" off idle with acceleration. Brian Hartman, ATR, and Precision Industries have excellent converters. There’s even a 9/11 converter, so named because half of the case is 9" and the other half is 11". This one will “flash” to 2,600 RPM at “0” boost and to about 3,200 RPM at 7-9 psi. This gives great drivability.
It is strongly recommended that additional transmission cooling be installed with this modification as considerably more heat is generated from using the higher stall speed.
This is the converter you all hear so much about. The one that Brian Hartman (SyTy Tranny Man) recommends for the Ultimate SyTy combo. The members of GAST can tell you that these things are AWESOME! They are hand built by Rusty at TCS to your specs and motor buildup. The fact that it has a 9" clutch and an 11" clutch mated results in incredible turbo spool-up, increased torque output, and less rotating mass. However, the smaller converter will produce more heat and a tranny cooler is a MUST (it's recommended for a stock truck). Please contact Brian Hartman (firstname.lastname@example.org) to learn more about transmission mods for our trucks.
– Detonation must be avoided at all costs and you must realize that detonation has a direct relationship to lean mixtures, high boost levels, and high charge air temperature.
Quite often, knock is not audible or severe enough to hear and the engine appears to “lay-down”, drop boost and lose performance. When you hear knocking or pinging, get out of the gas immediately! You need to use a Scan tool, such as DataMaster, TunerPro, Diacom, Tech 1, or AutoXRay, to determine the level of knock/pinging and work to correct this problem. Excessive pinging will destroy your engine. Never disconnect the knock sensor! The surging that you feel during W.O.T. may be the ECM pulling out Timing and boost as it is detecting knock.
There are some external knock detectors available that may assist you in identifying detonation/knock when you are without your scan tool.
HEADERS – Headers are generally recommended for Ultra-high performance trucks. ATR and Kenne Bell are the two manufacturers of stainless steel headers for our trucks. Prices are in the $1,000+ range.
– ATR has several coordinated products that they have packaged together and called Stage kits. Stage 1 consists of: 160 deg stainless thermostat
Auxiliary intercooler kit
Cool air kit with K&N filter
Pit Bull Chip
Detailed installation instructions
Stage 2 consists of:
Everything in Stage 1 pluss their 3” stainless exhaust system.
Stage 3 consists of: Everything in Stage 1 and 2 plus
3” Stainless downpipe kit
Wastegate control Valve
Air inlet adapter
Modified 850 CFM Turbocharger
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Detailed installation instructions.
Stage 4 consists of: Everything above plus their Staged Double Pumper fuel pump. Kits 2-4 require a relocated battery. Stage 5 includes everything above plus their stailness headers
ANS BOOST CONTROLLER
To run boost levels higher than the stock 14psi, with the stock chip, an additional boost controller is required. The ANS boost controllers simple wiring, use of the stock wastegate solenoid and low cost (Around $200) has proved it to be the best choice for most applications. The lack of boost level feedback into the controller means that boost creep and over-boost can occur on some trucks (Depending on turbo wastegate condition, exhaust and other variables).
Installing an ANS controller is quite easy. Since the plug that goes into the solenoid has 12V when the truck is on, that is where the power comes from. The stock solenoid plug is unlatched, the ANS plug inserted into to the solenoid, the stock plug is inserted into the socket on the ANS wiring and wire is bolted to a nearby ground source.
The cable to the controller is run along the firewall, through a grommet then up to the dash facia.
There are two switches on the controller along with a boost level knob. One switch says "On" and "Off." In the Off position, the solenoid will not be modulated and only generates about 10 psi of boost - just the same as if the cable was unplugged on the solenoid. In the "On" position, the other switch comes into play. The other switch says "ECM" and "TC." The "ECM" will let the ECM control the boost as it normally does; it simply connects the ground wire that was on the solenoid back to the solenoid. The "TC" lets the knob control the solenoid's on/off rate. A small LED flashes to indicate the rate at which the solenoid is being pulsed.
It is VERY important to keep an eye on the boost. The knob on the controller cannot be set for 17 psi one day and have it always at 17 psi. Also, because the ECM does not have control of the boost level it cannot back-off the boost if it hears detonation
The ANS is a neat gizmo for the Sy/Ty: Its a plug-in controller with very little installation hassles; Unlike N2O it is relatively safe to use on a stock engine; It's a lot more convenient than a bleeder valve under the hood that you have to jump out of the vehicle and adjust each time.
The 3-Bar Ultimate chip eliminates the need for this device
THROTTLE BODY AIR FOIL Using a TB Air Foil in Corvette and similar naturally aspirated applications can yield up to 11 BHP extra. On a forced induction vehicle, however, the actual HP increase (if any) is unproven. The Engine Tour page shows the area where the TB airfoil connects to reduce turbulence when entering the manifolds.
BRAKE SHOES Use Premium quality brake pads and shoes to allow more boost to be built during your "Torque up" staging.
WHEEL CYLINDERS FROM S-10 MANUAL Some users have changed the rear brake cylinders on their trucks and exchanged them for those from a 1991 or 1992 S10 pickup with manual brakes these larger cylinders fit both sides. GM Part # 18017570. These users have reported an increased hold power when torque braking.
AFTERMARKET BRAKE SYSTEMS Several Manufacturers make complete brake upgrades for our trucks. Baer is probably the best known.
The front conversion kit consists of new rotors, calipers, and lines. Some modifications may be required to install this kit. Use of the 12" rotors will allow the Stock Syclone/Typhoon wheels to be used. Their 13" front rotor kit mandates the use of 17" wheels.
The rear kit requires some slight machining of the axle assembly, is somewhat labor intensive, but not that difficult.
Most users report dramatically increased stopping power, but several have claimed a slight reduction in the ability to hold the truck during launch maneuver.
FAN FOR HEAT EXCHANGER Spal has a nice setup using two 7" fans that are mounted behind the stock intercooler radiator. These are wired to turn on with the ignition.
UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS Use with caution. If that last bit of horsepower is needed from the engine a set of under-drive pulleys can give a few HP but in street applications the lower running of the alternator can cause battery, ignition, and power problems.
LARGER TURBO There are several trucks running low 12's to high 11's with the stock turbo.
Don't get caught up in the bigger is better game. Responsiveness and bottom end spool are *very* important. You also need to have the proper tuning and fueling for your turbocharger.
There is a variety of turbochargers available for our trucks. Innovative Turbo, ATR, and Kenne Belle all make turbochargers that will go on our trucks. Precision Turbo makes a Turbocharger/downpipe/wastegate combo specifically designed for Syclones and Typhoons.
CAMSHAFT– Generally, unless the engine is being completely rebuilt for power in the 400+ range, the stock camshaft will work fine. However, the stock cam is from the regular 4.3L engine so it's a fairly anemic grind. The actual power gains from a cam change are unknown and, because of the low revving, grunt nature of the engine, really only benefits strengthened high revving (Above 4800 rpm) motors that have had the transmission shift points altered.
It is recommended that you contact an engine builder such as Stokes, Rockford Racecraft, or others for specific recommendations on any cam change.